British mountaineer Kenton Cool has reached the summit of Mount Everest for a 20th time, setting a new record for the most ascents by a non-Sherpa climber, Nepalese officials confirmed on Friday. Cool, accompanied by his Sherpa guide Dorjee Gyelzen, reached the 8,849-metre peak at approximately 4 a.m. local time.
Cool, who already held the previous record, now stands alone among non-Sherpa climbers. Lukas Furtenbach, a four-time Everest climber and organiser of expeditions for the Austria-based firm Furtenbach Adventures, described Cool from Everest base camp as “more Everest summits than any non-Sherpa ever… and still making it look like just another walk in the hills. Absolute legend.”
Record-Breaking Season Amid Tragedy
Officials reported that a record 270 climbers and guides successfully reached the summit from the Nepal side on Wednesday, taking advantage of clear weather during the popular spring climbing window. The achievement, however, was overshadowed by the deaths of two Indian climbers who are believed to have died while descending the mountain after reaching the summit on Thursday. Their identities have not yet been officially released.
Earlier in the week, seasoned guide Kami Rita Sherpa climbed Everest for a 32nd time, extending his own overall record. According to his website, Kami Rita has been an active climber for more than three decades and has completed over 40 summits of peaks above 8,000 metres.
The first known ascent of Everest was achieved by New Zealander Edmund Hillary and Nepalese Sherpa Tenzing Norgay in May 1953.
For European readers, the story highlights the growing commercialisation of high-altitude mountaineering and the risks that remain even as records tumble. The spring season on Everest has become a focal point for climbers from across the continent, including many from the UK, Austria, and other European nations, who often rely on Nepalese guides and logistics companies.
As the number of permits issued by Nepal continues to rise, so do concerns about overcrowding and safety on the world's highest peak. The deaths of the two Indian climbers serve as a stark reminder that even in a season of record summits, the mountain exacts a heavy toll.
