For nearly 150 years, Audemars Piguet has been synonymous with precision and luxury in Swiss watchmaking. From crafting the first skeleton watch in 1934 to producing some of the world's thinnest timepieces, the Vallée de Joux-based maison has consistently pushed technical boundaries. Now, in a move that challenges entrenched industry norms, it has teamed up with Swatch—a brand known for its playful, affordable watches—to create the Royal Pop collection.
The collaboration is a deliberate strategy by CEO Ilaria Resta to disrupt perceptions of an industry often seen as conservative and male-dominated. “Why this collaboration? For the joy and boldness it represents,” Resta explains. “Because audacity is often the starting point of innovation and new ideas. And because it invites a broader audience, including the younger generations, to experience mechanical watchmaking differently.”
Pop Art Meets Haute Horlogerie
The Royal Pop collection reimagines the iconic Royal Oak pocket watch, first introduced by Audemars Piguet in 1972. While purists will recognize hallmarks such as the “Petite Tapisserie” dial pattern, octagonal bezel, and eight hexagonal screws, the design otherwise breaks with convention. Available in eight variations, the watches feature primary and pastel colours—rarely seen in luxury watchmaking—alongside polka dots inspired by Roy Lichtenstein and exposed mechanical elements.
The pocket watch is also designed for versatility: it can be worn around the neck, kept in a pocket, attached to a bag as a charm, or used as an accessory. This taps into a trend among younger consumers for whimsical, jewellery-inspired purse decorations. Resta sees this as a way to make mechanical watchmaking more accessible and engaging.
“It's a very vibrant time for watchmaking, although it's a tough moment for the broader industry, but we see lots of creativity,” she told Euronews Culture. “There is really the desire to continue pushing the boundaries of what we think is possible from a mechanical standpoint, but also from a decoration standpoint.”
Challenging an Antiquated Narrative
Resta is particularly focused on dismantling the stereotype that luxury watchmaking is a conservative, male-dominated field. “Women have been working in watchmaking for centuries,” she notes. “Wrist watches were invented for women, and if you look at the data for 2030, 45% of women will be buying mechanical watches.” The collaboration with Swatch is part of a broader effort to reflect that reality and attract a more diverse audience.
The partnership also highlights a growing trend in European luxury: established houses collaborating with more accessible brands to reach new demographics. While some purists may balk at the fusion of high-end mechanics with pop-art aesthetics, Resta argues that such boldness is essential for the industry’s evolution. “It's about breaking the narrative that watchmaking is a conservative art,” she says.
As Europe’s watchmaking sector navigates economic headwinds, this collaboration signals a willingness to experiment. Whether the Royal Pop collection will win over traditionalists remains to be seen, but for Resta, the goal is clear: to change how time is perceived—and who gets to wear it.
