For centuries, silk has been more than a fabric along the Silk Road; it has been a cultural marker, valued for its softness, durability, and natural sheen. Today, this legacy continues through a production system that remains active, manual, and deeply tied to local expertise across Central Asia, particularly in Uzbekistan. From the Fergana Valley to Khiva, silk is still made by hand, linking tradition with contemporary demand.
Margilan: The Heart of Silk Production
In Margilan, located in the Fergana Valley, silk production follows a continuous, step-by-step workflow. At the Gold Silk factory, cocoons are processed on site, threads are spun and washed, and patterns are prepared before weaving begins. Master craftsman Abdumannop Sultonov explains that the process starts with precise calculations. Patterns are reconstructed through a stage known as “davra,” where measurements, thread layers, and design structure are defined in advance.
The material itself requires careful handling. Silk threads are extremely fine, and any damage at an early stage affects the final result. Producing atlas or adras fabrics can take up to ten days before weaving even begins, as each stage is completed manually. This meticulous approach ensures quality but demands patience and skill.
Pattern Design and Colour Planning
Once the threads are prepared, the process moves to design. What appears decorative is, in practice, highly structured work. Pattern designer Nosirjon Hakimov works from samples, measuring and reconstructing motifs so they can be accurately transferred onto fabric. Each element is planned in relation to the fabric’s dimensions, ensuring balance and repetition.
Colour selection is one of the most critical stages. Once applied, it cannot be reversed, meaning that any mistake affects the entire production process. Designers therefore analyse samples carefully and, when necessary, adjust tones to achieve a consistent result. This precision is akin to the craftsmanship seen in Chopard's work at Cannes, where attention to detail is paramount.
A Continuous System of Production
From preparation to weaving, the process unfolds without interruption. Threads move through each stage in sequence, gradually forming a finished textile. According to factory founder Ibrahim Sultanov, this system allows full control over production. Silk is sourced, processed, and turned into finished goods within one space, including carpets, garments, and accessories.
Production is closely linked to international demand. A large share of products is exported, while individual orders are also produced based on specific designs. At the same time, the factory functions as a space for visitors, where tourists can observe the process and interact with craftsmen. This openness mirrors the interactive approach seen in Silk Road instrument workshops, where tradition is shared with a global audience.
Silk and the Regional Economy
Beyond individual workshops, silk production plays a broader role in the regional economy. The Fergana Region produces around 2,900 tonnes of cocoons each year, supporting multiple sectors, from textiles to carpet weaving. Historically, cities such as Margilan were key points of exchange along the Silk Road. Caravanserais connected local producers with traders from other regions, enabling the spread of techniques and materials. Today, this exchange continues through tourism and exports, with European markets showing particular interest in authentic, handcrafted textiles.
Bukhara and Khiva: Design and Interaction
Moving west to Bukhara, silk production shifts from fabric-making to garment design. Craftsman Nodirshoh Fayziyev works primarily with silk fabrics to create clothing, accessories, and footwear. Each piece requires careful alignment of patterns, ensuring that motifs remain consistent across the final product. Working with pure silk presents additional challenges—the material is thin and requires precision at every stage. Yet it offers flexibility, allowing combination with other fabrics or use in contemporary designs through cutting, embroidery, and decoration.
Further west, in Khiva, silk production is presented in an interactive format. A dedicated museum brings together the full process within a single space, allowing visitors to observe and participate. Activities include extracting silk threads, weaving adras fabrics, and dyeing scarves using natural pigments. Workshops and masterclasses are central to this approach, creating both educational and economic value for local artisans. This hands-on engagement is reminiscent of the Louvre's exhibition on the living body, where art becomes an interactive experience.
A Tradition That Continues to Evolve
Across these regions, silk production operates as a connected system linking raw materials, craftsmanship, and design. Each stage, from cocoon processing to finished products, requires specialized knowledge and manual skill. The process remains time-intensive, shaped by both the material and long-established techniques. At the same time, new methods are being introduced, including printed silk and planned jacquard weaving. These developments expand production possibilities while maintaining traditional foundations.
Silk continues to function as a living material rather than a historical reference. It is produced, adapted, and used in contemporary contexts, reflecting a balance between continuity and change. What begins as a cocoon passes through multiple stages before becoming a finished textile—a process that reflects not only technical production but also a system of knowledge passed down through generations, remaining relevant in modern life.
