The European Union is moving to close a regulatory loophole that has allowed ultra-cheap clothing from platforms like Shein, Temu, and AliExpress to enter the bloc virtually unchecked. A new customs directive will require electronic tracking data for every incoming package, enabling border authorities to screen shipments for illegal chemical levels and safety violations before they reach consumers.
Each year, the EU imports roughly 4.5 million tonnes of fast-fashion textiles, with over 5.8 million low-value e-commerce parcels arriving daily. More than 90 per cent of these garments are made from synthetic polymers such as polyester, elastane, and nylon — essentially soft plastics that do not biodegrade and eventually become microplastics. Until now, these products were shipped directly from overseas factories to consumers, bypassing EU controls on harmful chemicals.
According to Pelle Moos, a chemical expert and policy officer at the European consumer group BEUC, the scale of the problem is staggering. “Every second, around 200 products enter the EU. While we're having this conversation, almost a thousand products will have entered Europe, and only a fraction of them will have been inspected,” he said. Authorities and consumer groups repeatedly find what Moos describes as “astronomical” rates of non-compliance, ranging from 70 to 80 per cent.
Toxic Textiles: What the Tests Reveal
A 2025 laboratory report published by Greenpeace found that 32 per cent of Shein products tested exceeded EU REACH chemical limits. Among 56 garments, researchers detected phthalate concentrations up to 200 times the legal threshold, and PFAS, or “forever chemicals”, in seven jackets — some exceeding EU limits by more than 3,000 times. Lead and cadmium were found in shoes, formaldehyde in a children’s costume, and nonylphenol ethoxylates in a raincoat. BEUC reported similar findings, while Danish consumer group Forbrugerrådet Tænk found restricted PFAS in several outdoor jackets.
“It's really the worst we are seeing,” Moos said. “These are chemicals we have known for decades are harmful. Chemicals that may cause cancer, infertility, developmental problems in children and that persist in the environment.”
Textile and fashion chemical alerts have risen sharply, with dozens of international alerts submitted each year to the EU Rapid Alert System. More than 72 per cent of these official textile alerts cite direct human health risks, including severe allergic reactions, chemical burns from excess formaldehyde, and potential organ damage from heavy metals.
Consumer organisation Testachats tested Shein toys and found that only one out of 45 randomly selected items was fully compliant. Around 60 per cent presented a genuine safety risk, including small parts that could be swallowed or electronic components that were not properly enclosed, according to spokesperson Laura Clays.
How These Chemicals Enter the Body
Body heat and sweat can act as natural solvents, allowing restricted substances to leach from garments into the skin. People also inhale textile fibres and chemicals released from fabrics, while small children often chew on clothing. Heat, sweat, prolonged wear, and damaged skin can all increase absorption.
“Phthalates are used to make plastics and synthetic materials softer, PFAS are added to make fabrics waterproof, formaldehyde is used to keep clothes wrinkle-free and protect them during transport, and cadmium can be added to cheap jewellery to give it more weight. Other substances, such as lead, are often not used intentionally but can appear because of poor manufacturing controls and contamination,” explained Moos.
BEUC’s Polish member, Federacja Konsumentów, tested Shein clothing, underwear, and jewellery. More than 50 per cent of the products contained unsafe levels of heavy metals. Lead, a neurotoxin that can accumulate in the body, has been linked to impaired brain development, learning difficulties, and kidney damage, particularly in children. Cadmium is classified as a carcinogen and has been associated with damage to the kidneys, liver, lungs, and nervous system.
“Lead is a neurotoxin and there is no safe level of exposure,” said Moos. “Europe has spent decades trying to remove lead from everyday life, yet we continue to find it in consumer products.”
The new EU customs directive, which ends the tax-free loophole for low-value parcels, is a significant step toward curbing the influx of hazardous goods. However, enforcement remains a challenge. As Moos noted, with hundreds of products entering the bloc every second, only a fraction will be inspected. The directive’s success will depend on the capacity of national authorities to conduct meaningful checks.
For consumers, the findings underscore the hidden costs of bargain prices. As the EU tightens its borders, the question remains whether fast-fashion giants will clean up their supply chains or simply shift their toxic practices elsewhere.
