Hermès, the French luxury house synonymous with silk scarves and the Birkin bag, is setting its sights on a new frontier: men's wristwatches. Guillaume des Seynes, the company's executive vice president, has outlined a strategy to elevate the brand's watchmaking division to the same iconic status as its leather goods and silks. The goal is to attract a broader male clientele and replicate the fervent demand that surrounds its most famous products.
Speaking to European Pulse, des Seynes emphasised that Hermès is not merely a fashion house that happens to make watches. The company has been producing timepieces since the 1970s, but it is now investing heavily in its horological credentials. The brand operates its own watchmaking facility in Bienne, Switzerland, where it assembles movements and develops complications. This vertical integration is a key selling point in a market dominated by Swiss giants like Rolex and Patek Philippe.
“We want men to see Hermès watches as a serious choice, not just a fashion accessory,” des Seynes said. “Our watches are designed with the same attention to detail and craftsmanship as our bags. The challenge is to communicate that story effectively.” The executive pointed to the brand's recent launches, such as the H08 collection, which blends sporty aesthetics with refined mechanics, as evidence of its commitment to the category.
A Strategy of Exclusivity and Heritage
Hermès is taking a deliberate approach to building its watch business. Unlike some competitors that flood the market with limited editions, the French firm is focusing on scarcity and heritage. The brand produces around 60,000 watches annually, a fraction of the output of major Swiss manufacturers. This controlled production helps maintain exclusivity and allows Hermès to command premium prices.
The company is also leveraging its rich design archive. The Cape Cod and Arceau models, originally launched in the 1990s and 1970s respectively, have been reissued with updated movements and materials. These designs draw on Hermès' equestrian heritage, a theme that resonates with its core customer base. “Our history gives us authenticity,” des Seynes noted. “We are not trying to invent a new identity; we are deepening an existing one.”
The push comes at a time when the luxury watch market is experiencing a shift. Younger buyers, particularly in Asia and the Middle East, are increasingly interested in independent and niche brands. Hermès, with its strong brand recognition and artisanal reputation, is well-positioned to capture this demographic. The company is also expanding its retail network, opening dedicated watch boutiques in cities like Paris, London, and Tokyo.
However, the road ahead is not without obstacles. The men's watch segment is fiercely competitive, with established players dominating the conversation. Hermès must convince collectors that its timepieces hold their value and offer technical sophistication comparable to traditional watchmakers. To address this, the brand has been investing in in-house movements, including the H1912 and H1837 calibres, which are designed and manufactured in Switzerland.
Des Seynes acknowledged the challenge but expressed confidence in the brand's trajectory. “We are playing a long game,” he said. “Hermès has never been about quick wins. Our watches are built to last, and we believe that patience will be rewarded.” The executive also highlighted the importance of storytelling, noting that each watch collection is accompanied by a narrative that ties back to the brand's values of craftsmanship and timelessness.
The broader luxury market is watching closely. If Hermès succeeds, it could reshape the perception of fashion houses in the watch industry, proving that design heritage and technical innovation can coexist. For now, the company is focused on winning over one collector at a time, one wrist at a time.
