The fashion industry is one of the most polluting sectors on the planet, and the dyeing of fabrics is a major culprit. The process guzzles water, energy, and chemicals, leaving a heavy environmental footprint. But a UK-based startup, Colorifix, is turning to biology to change that.
Orr Yarkoni, CEO and co-founder of Colorifix, explains that the industry uses over 70 highly toxic chemicals in dyeing. This includes not just the dyes themselves but also the auxiliary chemicals that help colour bond to fabric. "Over 30 of them are irretrievable," he says, meaning they persist in water even after treatment and eventually reach the ocean.
The reliance on synthetic dyes dates back to the 19th century, when manufacturers abandoned natural alternatives for cheaper, more effective chemistry. "Unfortunately, that chemistry proves to be quite toxic for life in general, including humans," Yarkoni notes. The shift away has been slow, largely because there were no viable alternatives that could operate at scale.
Brewing colour like beer
Colorifix's approach borrows nature's own methods of producing pigment, without extracting it from plants or animals. "We borrow the information of how the pigment or dye stuff is made in nature," Yarkoni says. The company inserts that genetic code into bacteria, which are then grown in fermentation tanks. "Very similar to how you make beer, but instead of alcohol, we're brewing the colour."
Once harvested, the biological dye—along with the biomass that helps it bond to fabric—replaces the synthetic chemicals typically used. The environmental savings are significant. For polycotton, Yarkoni cites figures of "upward of 77 per cent savings in water, 51 per cent savings in energy, and 31 per cent savings in emissions."
But Yarkoni is careful to stress that natural origin does not automatically mean safe. "Natural does not mean non-toxic," he says. Colorifix tests every dye for cytotoxicity, skin irritation, and allergenicity, going beyond standard testing for synthetic dyes. "We don't want to repeat the mistakes of the past of pushing with something that looks good and causes serious problems down the line."
Meeting the performance demands of the textile industry has been a challenge. Colours must resist fading in sunlight, survive repeated washing, and not rub off onto skin. "We developed hundreds of colours," Yarkoni says, and Colorifix now offers a full colour range for synthetic fibres like polyester, with a growing palette for cotton and other cellulosic fabrics.
From lab to industry
Colorifix has moved beyond research into commercial use, with major fashion brands adopting the technology. The company now ships its dyes as ready-to-use concentrates, so manufacturers don't need to install fermentation equipment on site. "We're releasing these products now as concentrates... that means we can ship the product ready to use in the dye machine without having to do any additional processing on site," Yarkoni explains.
Being an Earthshot Prize finalist has raised the company's profile. "It's helped really highlight our solution to the problem and bring more awareness to brands and manufacturers," he says. "We've had outreach from all over the world following the exposure."
As the fashion industry faces mounting pressure to clean up its act, biological dyeing offers a promising path. For a sector that has long relied on cheap, toxic chemistry, Colorifix's approach could be a crucial step toward a more sustainable future. For more on how nature and sustainability are converging, see our piece on conscious festivals or explore Europe's top stillcation spots.
