France is set to introduce a new levy on ultra-fast fashion items, with fees reaching nearly €20 per garment by 2030. The measure, which takes effect on 1 September, targets major e-commerce platforms such as Shein, Temu, and AliExpress, which have seen a surge in popularity across the country.
The levy stems from legislation passed by the French parliament in June, designed to regulate companies that sell large volumes of low-quality clothing at rock-bottom prices. The government argues that such practices have significant environmental and economic costs.
How the levy works
Under the new rules, ultra-fast fashion will be identified based on two criteria: the volume of clothing placed on the market and the cost of repairing garments relative to their purchase price. Each product will be scored on these standards, and the per-item fee will vary accordingly.
In 2026, companies will face fines starting at €0.50 for underwear, rising to €2 for T-shirts, €9 for jeans, and €12 for jackets. By 2030, the levy could reach up to €19.50 per item, though it will be capped at 50% of the product's pre-tax price.
To ensure accuracy, the government is developing a tool to collect data independently, rather than relying solely on companies' own declarations, according to the office of Mathieu Lefevre, the minister for ecological transition.
"The harmful effects of ultra-fast fashion on our environment and our economy are well known and documented," Lefevre said on Friday as the details were published.
Shein, which was valued at $26.3 billion (€22.7 billion) in its Hong Kong initial public offering on Monday, declined to comment when contacted by AFP. Temu and AliExpress did not immediately respond to requests for comment.
Exemptions and criticism
The measure has drawn criticism over which retailers it will affect. In July, Lefevre's office said the levy would not apply to European retailers such as H&M or Zara, leading some to argue that the measure appears to spare European and French companies.
French officials have repeatedly stated that they view Shein, Temu, and AliExpress as the main drivers of the ultra-fast fashion surge. The European Commission had raised questions about whether the legislation complies with EU law, but Lefevre's office said those concerns had been "dispelled" and the measure is not expected to be blocked.
China, meanwhile, warned in July of potential retaliation, calling the regulation "discriminatory" and a violation of trade principles.
The move comes as the EU has already taken steps to curb the influx of cheap goods. A separate €3 levy on small parcels from China, introduced in July, has led to a drop of up to 40% in such imports, as reported by EU data. This new French measure is part of a broader European effort to address the environmental and economic impact of ultra-fast fashion.
For more on the broader context, see Shein's market challenges and France's political season.
