The Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) returned for its 26th edition on 7 November, celebrating the finest in luxury watchmaking. The highlight of the evening was the Aiguille d'Or, the best-in-show prize, which went to Rexhep Rexhepi, an independent watchmaker based in Geneva, for his Chronograph Flyback.
Rexhepi, of Swiss-Kosovan origin, has been gaining recognition in the horological world for his meticulous craftsmanship. His winning timepiece features a storm blue Grand Feu enamel dial inspired by vintage pocket-watch chronographs. The watch's proportions required a complete rethinking of the movement's architecture, according to the jury.
The competition saw 84 watches and clocks vying for awards in 14 categories, including sports, calendar and astronomy, jewellery, and mechanical exception. In a notable shift, the organisers scrapped the traditional Men's and Ladies' categories, replacing them with new technical categories: Essential Watch and Complication Watch. This move reflects a broader trend towards inclusivity and technical focus in the industry.
The jury, composed of collectors, watchmakers, journalists, and auctioneers, had a challenging task. Among the nominees were a Moscow workshop challenging Swiss dominance, a wearable solar system, and a 10-kilogram clock that winds your watch while you sleep.
Full list of winners
Here are the winners across the main categories:
- Time Only: Chopard's L.U.C 1860 Chronometer, a continuation of the iconic model honouring the 30th anniversary of the Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier.
- Essential: Daniel Roth's Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton, a skeletonised reinterpretation defined by lightness and transparency.
- Complication: CLEGUER's Inspiration One, featuring a grand feu champlevé enamel dial and an oversized balance wheel beating at 18,000 vibrations per hour.
- Mechanical Exception: Blancpain's Grande Double Sonnerie, the most complicated watch by the brand, developed over eight years, with a world-first four-note, four-hammer striking mechanism.
- Gemset: Piaget's Swinging Pebble, a pocket watch carved from ornamental stone and hung from a twisted gold chain.
- Tourbillon: Ferdinand Berthoud's Chronomètrie FB 2TV, designed to reveal the mechanical beauty of the movement on the dial side.
The Aiguille d'Or, open to any watch across all categories, was last year won by Breguet's Classique Souscription 2025, a single-hand watch. This year's choice of Rexhepi underscores the growing influence of independent watchmakers in a field long dominated by established maisons.
The GPHG remains a key event for the European watch industry, which is centred in Switzerland but draws talent from across the continent. The awards also highlight the region's broader cultural and economic significance, as seen in other European achievements such as Cristina Fernández Cubas's Cervantes Prize and the European Parliament's Sakharov Prize.
As the industry evolves, the GPHG's new categories and the recognition of independent makers signal a shift towards innovation and craftsmanship over tradition. For Rexhepi, the Aiguille d'Or is not just a personal triumph but a testament to the enduring appeal of mechanical watchmaking in Europe.
